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Hey Guys,
Any ideas on how to remove this set up glue (LMI white glue) from between the kerfing?
Thanks,
Bill

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Formerly know as Mandodiddle.

Toothpick , but I leave it myself.

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
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Dental picks.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

De-Glue Goo might soften it and allow for easier removal but I have never used it on lining squeeze out. Reverse kerf lining will pretty much solve that problem.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

+1

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Why? Ever look inside an old G*bson? Lots of snot all over the place. That's "tone snot" by the way and everyone knows that by filling the kerfs (voids) with glue it make for a better sounding instrument....

A few dots along the kerfing don't bother me much, but after it turns clear, you can clean off the area around the sound hole with a knife or chisel. Hesh has it right.
If your interior has to be insanely perfect, I'd recommend solid or reverse kerfing, but folks that spend their time looking inside the sound hole are more concerned with cosmetics than playing.

Clean it up while its wet next time. You can try to pick it out...but you might chip some of the linings. That would look worse than some squeeze out to me

Yes..........!!

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Thanks Guys,
Maybe I'm being too anal.

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Formerly know as Mandodiddle.

Harbor Freight sells a set of what look like dental torture pick tools for about $3.49.
I have a set and although I haven't used them yet they look perfect for the job.

I wouldn't recommend the tooth picks for anal though !!!

_________________
The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/

Often, when I ponder questions like this myself, my eye wanders across my 60 gallon air compressor. Then, it hits me.

Yeah.

Your compressor whacks you in the mouth?
Or using a pneumatic chisel for glue clean-up?
Sorry, I'm confused..

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Blow the glue out before it dries. Thought it was obvious. Somebody above mentioned toothpicks which would not work on dry glue, so I too offered a wet glue solution. Actually, my way works better if you wet wipe the area first, then blow it out. Then a final wipe.

Sorry for my confusing post.

Btw, be careful here, too much wet wiping can lead to failure of the joint.

clean the glue with it is soft. I put the back on first then I can wipe out the glue , then I glue on the top and flip is to the top is down and you won't see the glue from the sound hole. Learning how much glue to put on is important.
This may be a case of if it isn't broke don't fix it. The more you dig around the more it may look like you did something,

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

What John said +1 as well. The sequence of what goes on first the top or back can be very helpful in permitting us to wipe away excess where it shows and not be all that concerned about it elsewhere. Again some of the most highly coveted instruments ever made are a mess inside with glue globs, saw marks, etc. John is also right that in time we also learn how much glue to put down so that squeeze out is present but minimal.

The OP in asking the question is displaying a pic of a closed box. In this context using an air compressor is a very bad idea especially if to direct the air flow one has to stick their arm in the sound hole..... In the OLF archives there are at least two threads of interest here. One from a member who was using a vac inside a closed box and his arm and the vac hose combined to restrict airflow into the box, the vac was sucking it out of the box, and his top caved in on a brand new build. Likewise there is another thread from some years back about the same thing happening with an arm and a compressor, the top cracked as the box started to expand faster than the restricted sound hole could replace the air.

A compressor for a rim is fine but that glue is going to go all over the place... not good. I would avoid wet wipes too and instead wipe up most dry and then go to damp for the residual.

But again as one who does jump through hoops to be neat and clean with my stuff there are far more important things that will play a far great roll in satisfaction with the instrument than some glue globs.

Also as mentioned reversed kerfed linings can help here in that the kerfs are not as exposed as with conventional kerfed linings. And as is tradition on the OLF and with a shout out to Howard Klepper... "Kerfing" is the voids left from the saw, the spaces, "Kerfed linings" are the linings with kerfs in them that we work with.... Years ago this was a tradition on the OLF to point this out.... Usually after pointing it out one tends to favor solid linings....

LOL 'tone snot' I never heard that one before.

For the uninitiated, Hesh is quite fond of making some people's ideas look like bad ideas. No, I would never suggest blowing air in a closed box. No, I would never recommend using a vacuum on a closed box (unless it was a harp guitar). No, I'd never use wet wipes in a guitar either.

I would recommend doing what I said while glue was wet and and no tops or backs.

And it didn't take an essay for me to say this

Mike

Not turning into Mr Stock are we ...?

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

There are two common ways that one may get glue in the "kerfs" of the linings especially when using conventional linings. First when gluing the linings to the rim it can happen and second to a greater degree when closing the box glue from the top side of the linings can migrate, and does.... into the kerfs.

In the context of the pic that the OP posted, as I said.... it's a closed box. Using a compressor AND an arm.... in the sound hole with a closed box, a vac too.... can and has damaged the box.

Perhaps, Mike, it's not a question of you being singled out for criticism and instead perhaps you were not clear and in not being clear advocated a method that was and is not sound, safe, or even effective. As such someone, me, disagrees with you, does not want anyone to ruin their guitar taking your poor advice or misunderstanding what ever you are advocating and points out what can and has resulted.

If you do not appreciate having someone freely voice opposition to a poor idea that you posted perhaps don't post it..... Welcome to America...., Mike....

Really???? That's quite the leap to go from someone bringing up a well established tradition on the forum or correcting the improper usage of a term to be more specific to making a claim that is not all that kind in intent to two people, one who is not even here anymore....

Words matter, lots of smiley faces were used to clearly indicate a friendly intent on my part as per your quote of me and as such I consider your comment, Colin to be a leap and very much off the mark.

"Kerfing" is not the proper term for "kerfed linings...", words matter... and this has been pointed out, often with humor, since very nearly the beginning of the OLF. Sorry if tradition and accuracy offends you but don't expect it to change any time soon....

Deary me Hesh. You are pointing out a grammatical mistake . . .

Yeah it's a nice break for me Michael from having to point out that you are flat out wrong with the following assertions that you have made in the past as well.....

Assertion 1: Finger pressure is all that is required to glue on a bridge. You made this claim without further explaining that this is a practice that some classical builders do and do successfully but you neglected to realize that for steel string builders this would be a nightmare, would not work, and could damage the top when the bridge comes off and it most surely will. Remember that one, Michael?

Assertion 2: Or the time that you claimed that you can do precision fret work with a PLEK as a discussion standard with only a file for the leveling process..... Even after you insisted that you were correct when I insisted otherwise and challenged you to a contest of sorts having your work scanned on your side of the pond by a PLEK of your choice and I would do the same, winner pays for both scans... you wussied out.... More bad advise from you....

Assertion 3: When Dave Collins shares his saddle mill with you you assert that you can do all that a proper saddle mill can do with a plow plane, a plow plane mind you.... When it's pointed out to you that not all saddle slots are through saddles and that with a plow plane you have to do the additional step of filling the ends, which does not have to be done with a saddle mill, instead of admitting that you are incorrect you continue to insist that you are correct.... Even more bad advice from you.....

Assertion 4: You insist that you can cut nut slots as cleanly, as quickly and as precisely with a needle file as one can with proper, modern nut slot files.... that is when the tip is not breaking off your little needle file....

You claim to be a professional yet you remain very closed to methods that are not what you do AND it's not bad enough that you remain closed you promote methods that are unsound, don't work with little regard for the idea that one day someone is going to take your very poor advice and something is going to go south for them. You don't seem to care.

Remember the pearl glue thing where you claimed it the same as HHG? It's not, far from it.... Grammatical errors you say.... how about what comes from you flat out incorrect information that clearly indicates that you have no clue what you are doing....

Ax to grind Michael? Bad advice catching up with ya is it?

I've provided you with my email in the recent past in MY effort to take the unpleasantries out of view and off the radar for other OLFers so as to not pee in the collective canteen here. Yet you refuse to have constructive dialogue with me that just might.... just might.... have possibilities that you might benefit from and of course everyone else here might also appreciate a cessation of hostilities....

Sheesh!!

Again Michael if you would like to attack me, again... use my email and I would very much welcome the opportunity to be completely honest with you as well..................................